Every kid in Japan know a folklore
called Momotaro (Peach boy). Here is the story.
Momotaro (Kids Web Japan)
There are various opinions about
the origin of this popular folklore, and Okayama is said to have strong
association with Momotaro. That may be why a statue of Momotaro is standing in
front of Okayama station.
In the 4th century, around
Okayama plain was called “Kibi-no-kuni” (Kibi Province), and there is a story
handed down for generations – The tale of Ura. Some says that Momotaro is originated
in this story. Indeed, In Kibiji district (Soja city and a part of Okayama
city), many places and ruins related to the tale of Ura still remain.
Here is a great digital book to
know the tale of Ura.
Story outline
Long long time ago, a giant man
who claimed himself as Ura, the prince of Kudara (ancient kingdom of Korea),
came to Kibi-no-kuni. The man was more than 4 meters tall with red hair. He
built a castle on the top of a mountain (Kinojo castle), and attacked villages ― that was what people said. The imperial
court sent a prince called Hiko-isaseri-hiko-no-mikoto (wow, it’s a long name)
to defeat the giant man known as an ogre.
The western gate (restored) of Kinojo catsle, built on the top of the hill
in 7th century.
Mikoto released arrows at the
castle, however, all the arrows were collided against huge rocks Ura threw, and
fell down to the ground. (A shrine called Yagui-no-miya ,which means
arrow-eating shrine, was built on that spot) So Mikoto released two arrows at
the same time. One fell down colliding against a rock, but the other one shot
in Ura’s left eye. Ura transformed into a pheasant and flew into deep
mountains. Mikoto transformed into a hawk and looked for Ura. When Mikoto was
about to catch Ura, the pheasant now transformed into a carp, and dived into a river
called Chisui-gawa (it means
bloodsucking river) of which water was all red in color with the blood from
Ura’s left eye. Now Mikoto turned into a bird called cormorant and bit the carp,
(Again, another shrine was built here called Koikui-jinja. It means
carp-eating shrine) and finally beat Ura.
Mikoto buried Ura’s head. But Ura
kept on groaning deep in the ground. One night Ura appeared in Mikoto’s dream
and told that they should have Ura’s wife prepare a meal for offering. So they
did, then Ura stopped groaning. Hiko-isaseri-hiko-no-mikoto is enshrined as
Kibitsuhiko-no-Mikoto in Kibitsu shrine.
Was Ura
really a demon? There are some various stories. In some stories, Ura was
described as a cruel ogre, and in some other stories, it is said that he
contributed to the development of Kibi-no-kuni by introducing the technologies
such as iron-making and ship-building from Kudara.
Most places in the story exist In Okayama-city, Soja-city and Kurashiki-city. Bloodsucking river? Carp-eating shrine? What interesting names they are. I felt like visiting those places.
Most places in the story exist In Okayama-city, Soja-city and Kurashiki-city. Bloodsucking river? Carp-eating shrine? What interesting names they are. I felt like visiting those places.
The first spot is Kibitsu shrine.
The main hall looks calm and sacred in the forest at the foot of a
mountain called Kibi-no-Nakayama.
There are two national treasure
buildings in Okayama, and the main hall of Kibitsu shrine is one of them. The architectural
style of the main hall is called Hiyoku Irimoya-zukuri or Kibi-zukiri. This unique style can be seen
only in this shrine. Doesn’t it look like a pair of birds flying side by side? So
it is no wonder that many couples have a wedding ceremony here. The hall is the
second largest shrine is Japan, next to Yasaka shrine in Kyoto.
A small door is built on the back
of the main hall. It is a very rare structure since normally Goshintai (an object that embodies deity)
is placed in the back at the room. At Kibitsu shrine, Goshintai is a mountain called Kibi-no-Nakayama. That is why the
door is here, to worship the mountain.
The 400 meter long corridor is quite impressive.
Legend says that Kibitsuhiko placed arrows on this huge rock.
The solemn atmosphere suddenly changes when you come to a hall of worship
where a deity of scholarship is enshrined.
Arcades to success: For students preparing for entrance exams.
On the top “Bright new departure”,
on the right, “Grab a victory!”. on the
left, “Setting off to the glory!”
Tied fortune slips. They say “Pass”.
Next, I visited Tatetsuki ruins where
Kibitsuhiko placed huge rocks as shields to protect him from Ura’s attack. It
was originally one of the largest tumulus in Japan, and rocks are placed in a
circle on the top, like a small Stonehenge. It is said that it might have been used
for rituals.
Next place is Koikui (carp-eating) shrine where Kibitsuhiko bit Ura-the-carp.
It is a small shrine located in a
residential area. Every shrine has an object that embodies deity, Goshintai. What do you think is Goshitai at this shrine?
It is carp-eating shrine.
Eat a carp?
Kibitsuhiko just bit it, but
normally what would you need to eat a carp?
You would need a knife and a cutting board.
Yes. Goshintai here are a knife and a cutting board. It is interesting.
(There is a Japanese saying “a
carp on a cutting board”, means “it is doomed”)
One of two guardian dogs on each side of the pathway was once stolen in 2015.
But the thief was caught when the person tried to sell it, and the statue was
returned. Now those guardian dogs are symbols of a safe return. Look at its feet.
They are cemented on the base not to be stolen again.
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I also wanted to go to
yagui-ni-miya (arrow-eating shrine), and Kinojo castle, but I should go there
another time. Probably Kinojo castle would need a whole day to explore.
To look around Kibiji district, exploring
by bike would be a good idea. You can rent a bike near a shop in front of JR
Soja station and ride it on an attractive cycling road called Kibiji Cycling Path. This
scenic bike path leads you to many historic sites such as a five-story pagoda
at Bicchu Kokubunnji, and the 4th largest burial mound in Japan.
From small ones to large ones, thousands of burial mounds were built in
Kibiji district in ancient times, and many of them still remain.
Based on the tale of Ura, a Kagura (theatrical performance dedicated to
shinto deities) program called Kibitsu
is played in western Okayama (Bitchu). Bitchu
kagura is one of regional styles of kagura and is designated as significant
intangible folk cultural asset. In Bitchu
region, it is also popular
entertainment for local people. Kibitsu
is exclusive program to Bitchu kagura and
it is full of actions and laughs. If you see the performance before visiting
Kibiji, each place would be more familiar and interesting.
Kibitsu (movie)
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It is off-topic but let me introduce another interesting site in Kibiji district.
It is called “Hanaguri-duka”, means cow nose ring hill. As the name represents,
thousands of nose rings are piled here.
Those nose rings are dedicated here from all over Japan to hold memorial services for livestock. This barrow was originally an ancient mound. A hall behind the statue of Bodhisattva is the stone chamber.
Oh, please don’t make that face, piggy…
I bowed deeply to thank them before leaving.
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